How to Assemble a Server Rack

Co-authored by wikiHow Staff

Last Updated: November 8, 2021 References

If you want a safe and efficient way to store and connect your computer network equipment, a server rack is definitely the way to go. When it’s time to assemble the rack—both putting it together and loading it with equipment—this article has your back with lots of helpful advice. It also includes a bonus section on choosing the right type of server rack for your needs.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:
Putting the Rack Together

1
Check the manual to ensure you have all the parts and tools. Even if you’re built server racks before, resist the urge to open the box and just start putting sections of the new rack together. Things will go more smoothly and efficiently if you get out all the parts, sort them by group, and gather all the tools (included or not) that you need to do the job. Use the instruction manual as your guide—that’s what it’s there for!^{[1]
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- Despite their many similarities, each brand and model of server rack has unique assembly elements. That’s why it’s so important to follow the specific instructions that come with the server rack you choose.
2
Work with a partner (or two) to make things much easier. If you’ve ever tried to build a piece of furniture from Ikea or a similar retailer, you get the idea here—it’s much easier with a second set of hands! On your own, it’s a tough task to hold the various pieces of metal framing in place while trying to insert and tighten bolts or screws. Compare this to the ease of having one person hold the framing while the other works on the bolts or screws.
- The product manual may specifically advise you to work with a partner, especially when it’s time to load the all-important server equipment into the rack.^{[2]
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3
Assemble the rack on the floor from the top down (or bottom up). Depending on your specific instructions, expect to start assembly by holding either the top or bottom panel upright on the floor, sliding the 2 side panels into place against it, and attaching them to the top/bottom panel with screws. After that, attach the other square panel (either the bottom or top panel) with screws.^{[3]
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- A 2-post rack usually assembles in much the same way, but it only has a square bottom panel and a single open rectangular panel that contains both side posts. Hold the bottom panel upright on the floor, slide the rectangular panel into place, and secure it with screws.
- Some racks use nuts and bolts instead of screws, or a combination of both. To secure a bolt, thread it through the appropriate opening and tighten a nut onto the bolt’s exposed threads.
4
Finger-tighten all the bolts and screws before using tools. In other words, wait to tool-tighten the bolts and screws until you’ve confirmed the framework of the rack is assembled properly. This makes it easier to make small adjustments or fix any mistakes as needed.^{[4]
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- Generally speaking, assembling a server rack requires nothing more than a screwdriver, a provided hex wrench (Allen wrench), or both.
5
Screw on the casters and levelers after assembling the frame. Most server racks include locking casters to make it easier to move the rack around. Attach these by screwing them onto the corners of the bottom side of the bottom panel. Your rack might also have levellers that compensate for imperfections in the level of the floor. These look like large bolts with an adjustable nut along the threaded shaft. These also screw in at the corners of the bottom panel.^{[5]
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- You and your partner can stand the server rack upright at this point.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:
Positioning and Loading the Rack

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Set up the rack in a room with air quality and climate controls. Generally speaking, if a room is comfortable for people, it’s comfortable for servers as well. Avoid putting server racks in rooms that experience temperature or humidity extremes or have poor air quality. Keep your equipment out of direct sunlight (such as right by a window) and away from potential sources of moisture (such as under an air conditioning unit).^{[6]
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- The ideal ambient temperature range for a server room is approximately 65–77 °F (18–25 °C).
2
Use 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm) floor tiles to aid in layout. If your server room has the 2 x 2 floor tiles commonly used in offices and other workspaces, use them to your advantage! Here’s one typical layout strategy: mark out a 6-tile rectangle (2 wide by 3 deep) onto which to set a server rack.^{[7]
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- If you don’t have 2 x 2 floor tiles to work with, temporarily create a 2 x 2 grid pattern on the floor with chalk or masking tape.
3
Load the rack from the bottom up, starting with heavy items. If you’re adding a PDU (power distribution unit) with a battery backup, for instance, this heavy piece of equipment should be installed first and at the bottom of the rack. Putting heavy items on the bottom makes the server rack more stable and far less vulnerable to tipping over, which can cause expensive damage and serious bodily injury.^{[9]
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- For the best results, take a few minutes to sketch out a plan instead of going straight to loading server items into the rack willy-nilly.
- If you have a rack that’s bigger than you need right now (giving you room to grow), leave the empty space at the top. However, if you buy a heavy item in the future (like a battery-backup PDU), reorganize the rack so it goes at the bottom.
4
Install sliding rack rails for ease of access to the equipment. Many 4-post server racks use sliding rack rails that work a bit like kitchen cabinet drawers, enabling you to slide out a racked item without fully removing it. They’re usually easy to install with a few screws or bolts, so long as you follow the instruction manual. Work from the bottom of the rack up, spacing the rails to suit the rack unit height (RU or just U) of each piece of equipment.^{[10]
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- For example, if you have a 2U, a 4U, and a 6U piece of equipment to install, position the rails to hold the 6U item at the bottom, the 4U item in the middle, and the 2U item at the top.
5
Lower items individually onto the sliding rack rails and lock them in. Extend the installed sliding rack rails fully, then hold the piece of server equipment level over top of them (work with a partner for heavier items). Dip the rear of the server piece down between the rack rails. Once the rear lock levers pop into place and attach the equipment to the rails, lower the front end and secure the lock levers.^{[11]
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- Lock levers are small, rounded metal pins that are spring-loaded so they can pop through an opening (such as on the side of a sliding rail) and hold an item (like a server piece) in place.
6
Attach items directly to the rack frame if you’re not using sliding rails. Some 4-post server racks don’t use sliding rack rails—and 2-post racks can’t use them—so you may need to install your gear a bit differently. Follow the specific instructions for your server rack, but figure on doing something along the following lines:^{[12]
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- Snap the included square “cage nuts” into the back side of the tabs at the front of the server rack. Each piece of equipment should be secured with 4 cage nuts and 4 corresponding screws, one pair at each corner of the item’s front panel.
- Slide the piece of equipment into place and line up the screw holes in its 4 front corners with the 4 cage nuts. This is easier with a helper.
- Insert the included screws through the screw holes and into the cage nuts, then hand-tighten them by twisting clockwise.
- Finish tightening the screws with a screwdriver.
7
Add patch panels and blank panels to aid in cable management. There’s no way around it—connecting the server equipment in a rack requires a lot of cables. To cut down on the “spaghetti factory,” install patch panels and blank panels (both usually 2U in size) to help tame the mess of cables:
- Blank panels are simply flat panels that snap or screw onto the front of the server rack in order to hide the void behind them. Use the void to conceal excess cable lengths from the server equipment that’s above and below the blank panel.^{[13]
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- Patch panels attach like blank panels but have a series of cable connection points. Feed longer cables behind the patch panel, connect the cables to the patch panel, then snap the patch panel into place on the server rack. From there, use shorter lengths of cable to run from the front of the patch panel to nearby pieces of server equipment.^{[14]
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Method 3

Method 3 of 3:
Choosing the Right Rack

1
Count up how many rack units (RU or U) your equipment requires. A universal height standard for server components exists, called rack units (RU or typically U for short). Server components can range in height from 1U to 10U or more, and server racks can range from a tabletop size of 2U all the way up to around 47U. Add up the total number of rack units for your server equipment so you can buy a properly-sized server rack.^{[15]
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- 1 U equals 1.752 in (4.45 cm), which means a 47U storage rack is approximately 82.4 in (209 cm) tall.^{[16]
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- It’s okay to buy a taller server rack than you currently need if you expect to buy more server equipment in the near future. Always load the rack with equipment from the bottom up, however, putting the heaviest equipment on the bottom.
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Confirm your equipment is the standard 19 in (48 cm) width. While there isn’t a defined rack unit for width like there is for height, 19 in (48 cm) is practically a universal standard width for server equipment. But it pays to measure just to be sure before investing in a pricey storage rack and taking the time to assemble it!^{[17]
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- The standard width is very common for servers as well as other pieces of equipment that often end up on server racks—items like switches, routers, patch panels (for cable connections), and cooling fans.
- If you have equipment that isn’t the standard width, you’ll have to shop for a specialty-width server rack.
3
Choose a rack that’s deep enough to fit your largest equipment. Unlike with height and width, there’s more variation in server equipment depth. Newer equipment tends to have a slightly greater depth, and most equipment falls into a depth range of between 28.5 to 29.125 in (72.39 to 73.98 cm). This doesn’t sound like much, but it may be the difference between your equipment fitting or not!^{[18]
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- Racks are built to have some leeway for cabling coming out of the back of the equipment. So, if you have equipment that’s 29 in (74 cm) deep, a rack that is designed for that size will have space for cabling in the back.
- When in doubt, buy a storage rack with a larger depth measurement. It offers more flexibility now and in the future.
4
Consider a 2-post rack for smaller, simpler installations. As the name indicates, 2-post server racks have only 2 vertical support posts that are attached to a platform base at the bottom and a crossbar at the top. You mount server equipment to them by securely connecting the center point of each side of the equipment to the vertical support posts, typically with screws. 2-post racks have some benefits but more limitations—for example:^{[19]
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- Pros: they’re smaller, take up less space, are less expensive, are typically easier to assemble, and provide for generous airflow.
- Cons: they’re less sturdy and secure than 4-post server racks, and therefore are generally recommended only for small server setups.
5
Get a 4-post rack for a more protected and flexible installation. While 2-post racks have their uses, a 4-post rack is a good choice in every case. 4-post racks are more sturdy, secure, organized, and protective. While there are many types of 4-post racks, they can be divided into 2 basic categories—open and closed:^{[20]
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- Open 4-post racks have an open frame structure, with bottom and top platforms, 4 exposed vertical posts, and various horizontal support posts. These support your server equipment very well but also expose them to the elements more.
- Closed 4-post racks have ventilated rear and side panels and (usually) front cabinet doors. These racks enclose and protect your equipment but make it somewhat harder to access it.